![]() MSD 8991: Self-powered, lightweight, easy to maneuver point n shoot, and the light is VERY BRIGHT no matter where you’re using it. It was kinda sketchy/irrational with 16v’s, but got it to settle down. Shooting the light was not good outside in the sunlight, but okay in the garage. Like years ago, I hated fumbling with the extra long cable lines. Vintage Sears: I believe I’m the first to ever open the box. Pulled the car into the garage and was able to see the light better and it was fine after that. Like I previously said, self-powered is cool. Almost impossible (for me) to see the light during the day in sunlight. ![]() Still have to find the right angle when shooting it. My middle of the day in/out of sunlight review:įlaming River: Put a new set of batteries in it. Initially I thought I was receiving something from Kimber LOL! Mine arrives tomorrow, so I’ll try it out this weekend.ĭid you get it? Can you give us a review of it? Quite a few well known engine builders use them, and a little birdie also recommended it. I didn’t read any of the reviews, especially Amazon. I was thinking of getting that one, but the amazon reviews don't look so rosy. My grandpa always raised me to pay a bit more $$ for a Craftsman Tool, because I'd be buying a Lifetime 'Investment' not some Chinese Box Store throwaway that they won't even warrenty or carry parts for now.The MSD 8991is probably the best available new. I've seen their television commercials offering to 'Price-Match' any of the Big Box Stores on lots of different power and/or Garden tools. It seems that all their tools have taken a nose dive off the dependability cliff these past couple of years. That way I'm covered from the 8N tractor, all the way up to the 88 Camaro. Maybe it would be best for me to purchase two guns: another basic and one with a 'set back feature'. I had no idea purchasing a replacement timing light would be so involved educationally! Thanks each and every one of you for putting the seperate spin (viewpoint) out there. Replace the stock unit with the adjustable one, turn it all the way in (so there is NO vacuum advance) and turn it out a turn at a time, road testing after each turn until it pings, then back it off.Īll this info really confused me for awhile. Many racers run their cars with just mechanical advance, but for a street car that can hurt cruising performance and gas mileage. I know, it was a cheap pun.Īdd an adjustable vacuum advance - If you are going to run a lot of initial advance, the stock vacuum advance will provide too much advance and cause pinging. But again, if you don't know the shop's reputation, you can get burned, so choose "weisely". You can even hunt for a local shop with a distributor machine. It is best to send the distributor to Jim Weise at Tri-Shield Performance and have him set it up. You can buy a "recurve" kit at any parts store. Getting your distributor "recurved" - What this means is having the mechanical advance changed to be what you want. ![]() Set your distributor so the new mark stops where you want. If it stops at +4, you have 34* advance, and so on. If you rev your engine to get all the advance "in", and the new mark climbs up and stops at 0 on the timing pad and wants to go no farther despite more revving, you have 30* advance. When you rev your engine and watch the new mark, it'll climb up toward your timing tabs on the timing cover as the ignition advances. Shine your timing light on the balancer and you'll see your new mark well below the timing tab on the timing cover. ![]() Make a mark with paint (a hacksaw puts a nice mark in it, but don't go nuts there, you only need a mark) and put a dot above it and below it so you can tell it from your factory mark. Using an ordinary timing light and remarking your balancer - While facing the balancer, measure 1.76" clockwise from the original timing mark around the circumference of the balancer.
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